Tina and I were very fortunate to dine at some of New York’s finest establishments. But Gilt towered above even these giants. It was a singular experience that we both agreed was our favorite NYC restaurant. There’s really only one way to write this review: with pictures.
So, let me begin with the interior. At right you see the intimate dining room. Gilt resides in the former dining room of a New York tycoon’s mansion (now the XXX Hotel). The previous tenant was the famous Le Cirque. Gilt has maintained the sumptuous, intimate feel of exquisite private dining. The room seats, at best, around forty people. As a result it felt very much like we were special guests at the center of attention.
Then, of course, there was the service. Gilt maintains the highest standards of professional decorum. The head waiter, Raphael, was extraordinarily attentive. He was assisted by a staff of six or seven who performed with synchronized precision. You might think this structure would come with a cool, detached “invisible hand” approach. Not so. Raphael was a charming host. He graciously explained the history of the room and the building, noted architectural details (such as the embroidered leather ceiling panels), and patiently explained each course as it was served. Clearly, Raphael was a talented professional and he (along with his staff) was an essential part of our exquisite experience.
With a stage this fine, the food had to truly shine. Much to our delight, it most certainly exceeded expectations. Raphael recommended the Grand Tasting Menu and, after consulting the chef, he arranged for us to taste the entire menu. It’s a great way to tour a restaurant and we were delighted Gilt could arrange such a treat for us.
We started with a fresh, garden gazpacho
I’m generally not a fan of gazpacho, but this cold soup refreshed the palette and was the perfect dish to start our adventure.
Each course brought a different plate for Tina and me. We’d trade plates half-way through so to sample everything. The second course consisted of Blue Fin tuna nicoise and Hamachi sashimi:
You can see powdered egg running up the middle of the nicoise plate (left). It created a delightful texture when combined with the tuna. The sashimi, above right, came with a beautiful and edible flower.
Course three: spot prawns and veal sweetbreads:
The sweetbreads (right) were served with crunchy, red-curry cauliflower. I’m not sure how it was prepared, but the flavor was amazing and the crunchy texture -- almost crouton like -- was very unusual.
On to course four: frog legs and dorade royale
We’ve never had frog legs (above, left) before and these were accompanied by a rhubarb foam. The dorade,was a wonderful shellfish creation rich in flavor and texture.
Course five: tandoori black cod and Long Island duck:
These two mains both offered unusual twists. I’ve never enjoyed Indian flavors with seafood, but the cod (above, left) had a smoky, dark flavor that was an excellent match. The duck, however, was one of my favorites. Simply prepared in a spicy sauce and topped with a sesame puff, it was otherworldly.
Course six: California squab and Elysian Field Farm lamb
The pictures, underexposed, don’t really capture the beautiful colors and textures of these main dishes. The lamb was a vibrant red, surrounded by spring onions, barley, and rhubarb.
Finally, the Niman Ranch steak (from our home region):
As you have likely noticed, I am somewhat challenged to describe these dishes. In this, I will let the picture do the talking. All I will say: magnificent.
After the steak we were getting pretty full. Raphael and company still had a few other items yet: the desert menu. We tasted the strawberry-basil shortcake, an inverted blueberry pie, a chocolate liege waffle, a “Knickerbocker Glory”, and (my favorite) the strawberry-rhubarb pavlova:
They even whipped up a light anniversary special:
It might be that Gilt isn’t for everyone. There are less expensive restaurants. The portions are designed for tasting not gorging. The textures and flavors of the foods are designed to amuse, delight, and surprise. In short, Gilt is for the adventurous food aficionado that yearns for something different. There are familiar favorites (like the duck and steak) but they are creatively combined with with new and unusual components. I can say I’ve never experienced anything quite like Gilt, and I loved every bite.
For the full photographic slideshow, below.
★★★★★
455 Madison Ave
New York, NY 10022
(212) 891-8100